A Spontaneous Yomp to Penyghent

Easter weekend was coming up, and I hadn’t done much running due to a bit of a niggle in the last few weeks, but I fancied an adventure. Alice was going to be working for a most of the weekend so I had some time to myself so it was time for a spontaneous adventure.

For anyone who doesn’t know, I am planning on going to university again to study physiotherapy, so I’m having to start embracing the Yorkshire ways and become a little tight fisted, so I figured I should do something on the doorstep. I didn’t fancy going for a stupidly long run because I just didn’t think I had it in me as I haven’t done much consistent training since my injury on my Mark Parrish Round attempt 7 months ago, but I felt I could manage some hiking, which I also fancy as a great way to build some conditioning and get some time on feet again without the impact that running long distances has on joints etc. I had thought about maybe just hiking and bivvying the Mark Parrish Round over a few days and close the loop that way, but I fancied getting out of Calderdale and seeing somewhere different.

There were 2 ideas on the table:

1.       Head north along the Pennine Way and see how far I get, perhaps aiming for anywhere along the Leeds – Settle – Carlisle trainline, such as Horton-in-Ribblesdale or Settle etc.

2.       Head South along the Pennine way to Edale and then get a train home from there.

I opted for option 1 because the train was £5 cheaper to get me home from Horton-in-Ribblesdale than it was to get me home from Edale.

I packed enough for 2 nights out, but only really intended to stay out for 1 night as Alice wasn’t feeling great so was being a bit needy and also I didn’t fancy having to deal with Sunday Trains, so I set off from Hebden Bridge at about 8:20am on Good Friday morning, not knowing how fast I might go, not knowing how far my body was capable of taking me, not knowing where I would sleep etc. It was all tremendously exciting.

I admit I was a little anxious. I’ve only managed to string together a little bit of running in since September and then that got put on hold after a bit of a nasty fall around start of March which set me back again. I’d fallen hard and really bashed up my hip mid way through a run and I think the compensatory effect during the rest of the run just reintroduced some imbalances and stability issues etc. However, I have been getting really good with my strength and conditioning and mobility work, so maybe this would stand me in good stead. I’d just managed to shift any weaknesses and tightnesses in the week leading up to this hike so I was ready to give it a go. Besides, there was no pressure, it was a just a case of get out on the trail and see what happens.

The weather was perfect really as I set out and would remain this way all day. Not too hot and nice and calm with a very slight breeze every now and again but nothing that really required any extra layers until later on in the evening.

Setting off out of Hebden Bridge I headed up along a really nice trail that skirts along the edge of Heptonstall, overlooking Colden Clough. I was already feeling a little tired and my bag felt really heavy, so I was already expecting this to be a really hard day.

I dropped over the other side of Slack and down into Hardcastle Crags and along the river to Gibson Mill where I refilled some water before continuing along the main track up to Walshaw Estate and over the hill to Walshaw Dean where I would pick up the Pennine Way. This was a big boost as I felt like I was finally on my way and I started to feel strong and in a good rhythm, maintaining a steady 3 miles an hour, which became a bit of an arbitrary pace target for the whole day and a bit of a test of my endurance. I could maintain that pace I felt I could make it to Malham by evening which seemed like th first real feasible place to bivvy out without having to be super, super stealthy. I just didn’t really fancy bivvying anywhere before that in farmers fields etc. aso that became the target.

Making my way towards Top Withens, supposed inspirastion for Wuthering Heights

Climbing up towards little wolf stones from ponden reservoir I was just reminded of last time I was here, running at quite a pace early into my Mark Parrish Round attempt with Ian, Pete and Ben. Today was a lot more relaxing and I even found a good water source, so I’ll keep that one in the back pocket for when I have another, much more low key attempt. Heading over Keighley Moor I felt the first signs of blistering. I manage to alleviate this by taking a few moments to try and catch it early and apply some chafe cream to my feet. Onwards and upwards. I was now on pennine way territory that was completely unfamiliar to me so the map came out and it was time to be hot on my Nav.

I actually expected the section out of Cowling to be really boring, so I was pleasantly surprised. The major highlights for me here were Lothersdale and Pinhaw Beacon, an area I intent to head back to ASAP with Alice as I think she’ll really like it. The Pennine way drops steeply into Lothersdale which looks very quaint from an almost birds eye view as the hill is so steep. I took some time here to stop for 15 mins or so for some chips, a glass of coke and a flapjack, but felt that Yorkshire guilt when I realized it was over £8. What happened to my cheapskate adventure? Anyway, I took the chance to fill my bottles and was on my way, having lost the 20 minute buffer I’d built on my arbitrary 3 mile an hour target, but I knew I’d soon build that up again. Now for the climb up to Pinhaw Beacon, and I was quite looking forward to this part.

Looking down on Lovely Lothersdale

I wasn’t disappointed. The views at the summit were magnificent, some of the best views I’ve seen in the South Pennines. To the north I could see into the Yorkshire dales with a wide vista from Embsay Moor, Sharp Haw near Skipton, you could see the Y3P’s and across to the forest of Bowland and Pendle hill. Looking south you could see all across Keighley moor and Boulsworth hill poking its head in the background. So although Pinhaw Beacon itself isn’t exactly the most interest hill to climb, its solitary position between the Yorkshire Dales National park and the South Pennine Moors makes for one of the of the finest panoramic viewpoints that I have experienced in a long time. It was breathtaking.

Pinhaw Beacon Summit

Looking north towards the Dales from Pinhaw Beacon

You could argue that this is where things get a little less interesting. The going becomes quite flat through countless amounts of fields leading to Gargrave and towards Malham. I remember Dougie Zinis from Calder Valley Fell Runners really moaning about these fields when he won the spine challenger in 2020. And he was right, they were a slog, and this was in good conditions. The scenery was still nice and I was still enjoying myself, but it just felt like such a slog, something to just try and get out of the way and when I unravelled my map I could see that I still had so far to go it just started to feel a little demoralizing. I stopped in Gargrave around 4-5ish (I think) for a water refill and a bite to eat and then checked my map to see I still had a fair chunk of fields to negotiate before making it Malham, but I should easily make it in time for sunrise.

I actually found the next section to be really pleasant. I’d expect more of the same, just field after field after field (which I guess it was), but it felt like the terrain became a little more undulating and simply just more beautiful. Coming out of Gargrave, the Pennine way climbs over a small hill called Harrows hill which had delightful views and you could start to see more of the upcoming Yorkshire dales. A general sense of solitude began to seep in and the evening glow from the sun was just making for a warm, calm and pleasant evening. I took 10 minutes down by the river Aire before Airton to give my feet a wash and try and sort out the blisters that were building furthermore. From here to Malham it was still a bit of a slog, but an enjoyable trek along the river with increasingly dramatic views as I came in towards Malham, with Gordale Scar (somewhere I am still yet to visit) and Malham Cove glaring back at me.

I made it to Malham between 7 and 8pm I think, and the sun was beginning to set. I refilled my water bottles and did a few hip mobility exercises to try and loosen up as my right hip was beginning to feel a little tight. I figured it was probably time to start thinking about finding a place to get my head down for the night. Little did I know my Neighbour and Friend Henry was sat in the pub as I walked past after he had been climbing at the cove all day. I am sure if I’d spotted him it would have been the end of my day with a few pints being sunk instead. However, I didn’t see him so I continued on and up the steps to the limestone pavement, where I suddenly felt full of energy again, despite the sudden drop in temperature. So I layer up and thought that maybe I should just carry on and see what happens. Ultimately I wanted to get to Penyghent and Horton in Ribblesdale to get a train home the next day, but I also didn’t fancy having to hike too far the following day as I just didn’t think I’d have the same momentum that had been carrying me all day. So on I went. The section from the limestone pavement to Malham tarn was just gorgeous, and for the first time all day I actually started running! The sky was glowing with wonderful colour as the sun was setting behind Malham Moor, Kirkby Fell and Rye Loaf Hill and because it was so still, Malham Tarn was just like a perfect Mirror. Absolutely Glorious!

So I continued on north towards Tennant Gill for the climb to Fountains Fell. At this point I felt an intense pain on the back of my heel as a blister popped. It seriously burnt and I thought this was going to force me to stop and get into my bivvy bag on the spot. I tried walking it off for a bit, which was very sore but eventually it seemed to ease up. I’d applied some chafe cream which helped but the blister plasters I brought were absolutely useless.

The climb up fountains fell was probably another highlight of the day. It was just great to feel like I was in real remote, mountainous terrain now and I was completely alone with not a soul or a torch to be seen anywhere. The clouds cleared completely for a little while and I was able to turn my headtorch off due to the full moon, which felt like a really special moment to me. This is what I was after, this I what I crave when I’m out in the hills… that feeling of solitude. I think you really get that a lot more when you’re out at night too, although I don’t think it eased any feelings of anxiety for Alice back at home, who tends to worry about me a lot whilst I’m just in my element.

The climb felt like it when on and on and on, but I enjoyed it and it didn’t feel difficult, although it was starting to get a little chilly and the clag came in nearer to the summit too. Clag makes me uneasy at the best of times, but at least in the day you can usually still read the lie of the land a bit and use that to navigate, but in the darkness I just don’t think there is much to feedback on to navigate with so I was thankful to be on the country’s oldest and possibly most well-trodden national trail. I dropped down the other side which was a nice technical trail and then headed along the road for Dale Head where a lone voice came out of the darkness which scared me a little. It was just a young lad who’d had some car trouble and came up the pass to try and find some signal. Hopefully he managed i get sorted, I don’t think I would have been much use really. By this point it was getting a bit chilly and the looming outline of Penyghent looked more imposing than every, which a dark cloud lingering at the summit. It was now around about midnight and all evening I had been hoping to summit and then bivvy on the summit too. However, my feet were becoming problematic and I knew that if I went up, I would probably have to scramble back down again as I don’t think it would have been warm or sheltered enough to sleep on the summit, so I made the decision to stop at the first sheltered spot I came across. Time for some food and a well-deserved (broken) sleep.

I had a reasonable night to be fair. Its never solid 8 hour type sleep recommended by health professionals, but I managed to keep reasonably warm apart from minor cold spots and I’m pretty sure I got a few hours at least, but I always feel quite aware that I am outside and vulnerable so I never feel like I’m in a real deep sleep. I wonder if that is an evolutionary response to sleeping outside?

Anyway, I woke up and found that my little toe on my right foot had essentially doubled in size. It needed sorting out right away, so I painfull popped the blister and rubbed as much chafe cream on my feet as possible, hoping for the best. Putting my shoes on was incredibly painful and I had no idea how I was going to be getting into Horton, let alone a brief detour to the summit. Around 7am I convened with the streams of 3 peak challenge walkers already on their way to the summit. I was painfully slow in my ascent, being passed by people who, lets say didn’t look like regular hill walkers. It was worth it though, the views at the top were incredible as I got to see my first cloud inversion in quite some time. As I scramble back down the southern face of Penyghent, some people were asking if I wasn’t doing the whole thing. I couldn’t be bothered explaining that I had just hiked 45 miles from Hebden within the last 24 hours, so I just shook my head and carried on quietly and very slowly made my way down brackenclose towards Horton, just in time for my train, but not before bumping into someone I went to university with and hadn’t seen in over a decade! How random. He asked if I fancied coming up Penyghent but I couldn’t face it so after a very brief exchange we went separate ways but had a good catch up on the phone later that day.

So all in all, this was very much the adventure that I’d hoped it to be. After several months without running and training, I had convinced myself that I had lost all of my endurance so this was a real nice test to see whether there was something there still without really killing my joints with the impact of running. But above that, it was just a fantastic adventure and it just felt great to be out, moving over distance under my own steam again, whether hiking or running, I just love being out in the hills, fells and trails for hours on end and Its given me renewed confidence and mojo, in which I cant wait to start on some new challenges and projects this year.

Of course, one thing I have learnt is I need to get better at looking after my feet. Another lesson learnt, but this is the great thing about adventure, learning as you go. Nothing ever goes 100% to plan but it’s the best way to learn I think.

Thanks for Reading.